- On December 11, 2024, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) issued updated guidance for industry on the registration and listing of cosmetic product facilities and products. The guidance provides recommendations and instructions to help individuals and companies comply with the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulations Act of 2022 (MoCRA).
- MoCRA mandates that cosmetic companies report serious adverse events to FDA within 15 business days, register their facilities and list their products, ensure product safety before marketing, and comply with FDA’s authority to access records and order recalls if products are found to be unsafe or misbranded.
- The updated guidance outlines the statutory requirements for submitting cosmetic product facility registrations and product listings. It finalizes the frequently asked questions (FAQs) in Appendix B (Q1-19) and introduces three new FAQs (Q20-22) for public comment.
- Q20 outlines the responsibilities of a U.S agent, which includes assisting FDA with communications, responding to product inquiries, helping schedule inspections, and receiving documents on behalf of the foreign establishment;
- Q21 explains that multiple buildings within three miles can share one FEI number if they are part of the same establishment and management, and can be inspected together; and
- Q22 indicates that a product listing is generally required for all cosmetic products, including free samples or gifts, unless specific exemptions apply.
- The comment period is open until January 13, 2024, and comments can be submitted through the docket.
Tag: Makeup
MoCRA Enforcement Pushed Six Months
Key Takeaways
- What Happened: FDA announced delayed enforcement for MoCRA facility registration and product listing information.
- Who’s Impacted: Cosmetic product manufacturers
- What Should You Do: Keep up to date with the ongoing updates and prepare to register your facilities and list your products by July 1, 2024.
As described in our previous alert, Congress enacted the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) in December 2022. MoCRA amended the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) to add several new provisions, including requiring manufacturers and processors of cosmetic products to register their facilities with the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and submit product lists to FDA. FFDCA § 607. Prior to the November 8, 2023 announcement, every person who owns or operates a facility that engages in manufacturing or processing a cosmetic product for distribution in the U.S. was required to register with FDA starting on December 29, 2023. FFDCA § 607(a)(1)(A). Additionally, the responsible person for each cosmetic product sold in the U.S. was required to submit a cosmetic product listing to the FDA starting on December 29, 2023. FFDCA § 607(c)(2). The FDA’s announcement pushed back the enforcement of these requirements for six months to ensure that the industry had time to comply. The new deadline for both facility registration and product listing information is July 1, 2024.
The accompanying guidance document indicates that FDA still intends to be ready to accept registration and listing information by the statutory deadline of December 29, 2023. Companies will be able to submit their information then.
The delay was precipitated by industry comments to FDA indicating that companies needed more time to gather the required information for facility registration and product listing. The commenters cited concern about the timeframe required to obtain facility registration numbers for cosmetic product listings, to access the electronic submissions database (which at the time of this alert, is not live), and to enter and submit accurate registration and listing information.
Cosmetic product manufacturers should ensure they are on track to meet the new July 1, 2024 deadline, and also note that the December 29, 2023 deadline remains in effect for other MoCRA requirements, including the requirement that FDA propose regulations for standardized testing methods for the detection and identification of asbestos in talc-containing cosmetic products, and the requirement that responsible persons ensure adequate safety substantiation.
First Major Overhaul of Cosmetics Regulation Since FDR Administration
As part of the Consolidated Appropriations Act, 2023, President Biden signed into law the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (“MoCRA”). This is the first major reform of cosmetics regulation since the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (“FDCA”) became law in 1938.[1] MoCRA implements new compliance requirements on the cosmetics industry and also significantly expands the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (“FDA”) authority to oversee and regulate cosmetics.
New Obligations for Cosmetics Industry
MoCRA imposes the following new requirements on “responsible persons”[2] and “facilities.”[3] We note that certain of these regulatory requirements may differ for entities considered small businesses under MoCRA.
- Facility Registration and Product Disclosure. All facilitates (domestic or foreign) that manufacture or process cosmetic products for distribution in the United States must register with FDA by December 29, 2023. Registration is biennial. Further, responsible persons must annually submit cosmetic product listings to FDA and disclose key product information, such as ingredients.
- Adverse Event Recording and Serious Adverse Event Reporting. Generally, responsible persons must keep records of any adverse events related to products used in the United States for six years and submit any “serious adverse events” to FDA within 15 days of the responsible person’s receipt of the report. MoCRA broadly defines what constitutes a serious adverse event, when compared to other FDA regulatory product categories (e.g., dietary supplements).[4]
- Labeling Requirements. To improve the reporting of adverse events, responsible persons must include contact information on product labels. Additionally, product labels must identify any fragrance allergens in the product. Labels for products intended for use only by licensed professionals must also indicate that only licensed professionals may use the product.
- Safety Substantiation Requirement. Responsible persons must ensure that a product is “safe” and keep records “adequately substantiating” the product’s safety.[5] Products without adequate safety substantiation may be considered adulterated under the FDCA. MoCRA also contains a provision stating that it is the sense of Congress that animal testing should not be used for safety testing on cosmetic products and should be phased out with the exception of appropriate allowances.
Increased FDA Oversight of Cosmetics
MoCRA significantly expands FDA’s enforcement authority over the cosmetics industry.
- Issue Mandatory Recalls. FDA now has mandatory recall authority if the agency concludes there is a reasonable probability that a cosmetic is adulterated or misbranded and the use of the cosmetic will cause serious adverse health consequences or death.
- Access Records. If FDA has a reasonable belief that a cosmetic product (or one of its ingredients) is adulterated and presents a threat of serious adverse health consequences or death, the agency has authority to access records relating to that product.
- Suspend Facilities. FDA may suspend a facility’s registration if the agency determines that a cosmetic product manufactured or processed by that facility has a reasonable probability of causing serious adverse health consequences or death and there is a reasonable belief that other products from the same facility may be similarly affected.
- Federal Preemption. MoCRA explicitly preempts any state or local laws that differ from the federal cosmetics framework regarding facility registration and product listing, good manufacturing practices (“GMPs”), records, recalls, adverse event reporting, or safety substantiation.
Forthcoming FDA Rulemakings and Reports
MoCRA directs FDA to promulgate rules regarding the following three issues. Importantly, the cosmetics industry will have opportunities to provide comment on the proposed rules.
- GMPs. FDA must establish GMP regulations consistent with national and international standards. Cosmetic products manufactured or processed under conditions that do not meet FDA’s forthcoming GMP regulations may be considered adulterated. The agency must issue a proposed rule by December 29, 2024 and a final rule by December 29, 2025.
- Fragrance Allergens. FDA must publish regulations to identify fragrance allergens. Cosmetic product labels that do not include fragrance allergen disclosures required by such regulations may be considered misbranded under the FDCA. The agency must issue a proposed rule by June 29, 2024 and a final rule no later than 180 days after the public comment period.
- Talc. FDA must issue regulations to establish required standardized testing methods for detecting and identifying asbestos in talc-containing cosmetic products.
In addition to the above rulemakings, FDA must issue a report within the next three years on the use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (“PFAS”) in cosmetic products.
Footnotes
- MoCRA amends Chapter VI of the FDCA.
- A “responsible person” is defined as a manufacturer, packer, or distributor of a cosmetic product whose name appears on the label of that product.
- “Facilities” are defined as any establishment (including an establishment of an importer) that manufactures or processes cosmetic products distributed in the United States. MoCRA specifically exempts from registration certain facilities, such as those that (i) only label, relabel, package, hold, or distribute cosmetics products; and (ii) manufacture or process products solely for use in research and evaluation.
- “Serious adverse events” are defined as adverse events that result in (i) death; (ii) a life-threatening experience; (iii) inpatient hospitalization; (iv) a persistent or significant disability or incapacity; (v) a congenital anomaly or birth defect; (vi) infection; or (vii) significant disfigurement (including serious and persistent rashes, second- or third-degree burns, significant hair loss, or persistent or significant alteration of appearance); or that require – based on reasonable medical judgment – a medical or surgical intervention to prevent one of the outcomes described above.
- “Safe” is defined as a cosmetic product (and its ingredients) that is not injurious to users under the labeling or customary/usual usage. A cosmetic product (or its ingredients) should not be considered injurious solely because it can cause minor and transient reactions or minor and transient skin irritations in some users. Further, “adequate substantiation” of safety means tests or studies, research, analyses, or other evidence or information that is considered, among experts qualified by scientific training and experience to evaluate the safety of cosmetic products and their ingredients, sufficient to support the product’s safety to a reasonable certainty.
Article By Christopher Hanson of Nelson Mullins. Paul Clowes, Law Clerk in the Greenville office, contributed to the drafting of this post.
For more biotech, food, and drug legal news, click here to visit the National Law Review.
Copyright ©2023 Nelson Mullins Riley & Scarborough LLP
New Cosmetic Regulatory Requirements: What Cosmetic Manufacturers Need to Know
On December 29, 2022, President Biden signed into law the “Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022,”1 which requires increased Food and Drug Administration (FDA) oversight of cosmetics and the ingredients in them. This GT Alert outlines the law’s key provisions, including timelines for FDA actions and enforcement. The law creates new requirements that may generate increased consumer litigation. This GT Alert summarizes the Act’s provisions and does not constitute legal advice. Many provisions are subject to regulatory implementation by a date provided for in the Act.
The new law also includes amendments modifying other FDA requirements. In particular, the law modifies the law as to issues such as improvements and innovations in drug manufacturing, reauthorization of key FDA programs such as the Humanitarian Device Exemption Incentive, the Best Pharmaceuticals for Children Program, and Reauthorization of Orphan Drug Grants. There are also modifications to biologics and drugs, as well as modifications of the Save Medical Device amendments. For information on the potential litigation impacts of the new law, please see this GT Alert published by the Pharmaceutical, Medical Device & Health Care Litigation Practice.
Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA)
MoCRA, the new cosmetic regulation law, establishes a process, similar to those for other FDA-regulated products, that ensures the cosmetic manufacturers provide assurances that the cosmetic products are safe. This GT Alert provides general information on these new requirements, with effective dates for certain regulatory and other requirements. The law establishes obligations on the “responsible person” that is, the manufacturer, packer, or distributor of a cosmetic and those whose name appears on the products label.
MoCRA is only applicable to importers and entities that manufacture or process cosmetic products. It does not apply to the following entities if they do not import, manufacturer, or process cosmetics: beauty salons; cosmetic product retailers; distribution facilities; pharmacies; hospitals; physicians offices; health care clinics; public health agencies and other nonprofit entities; entities that provide complimentary cosmetic products; trade shows and others giving free samples; entities that are only doing research; and entities that prepare labels, relabel, package, repackage, hold, and/or distribute cosmetic products.
Key Terms
Good Manufacturing Practices: The secretary of the Department of Health and Human Services (HHS) (through the FDA) will propose and finalize regulations to establish good manufacturing practices. The key is to ensure that products are not adulterated and will allow FDA to inspect records to ensure compliance. The proposed rulemaking shall be no later than two years after date of enactment (December 29, 2022) with final regulations no later than three years after date of enactment (December 29, 2022).
Adverse Events: Any health-related event associated with the use of a cosmetic product.
Serious Adverse Event: Any event that is a result of death, life-threatening experience; inpatient hospitalization; persistent or significant disability or incapacity; a congenital anomaly or birth defect; and infection or significant disfigurement OR requires, based on reasonable medical judgment, a medical or surgical intervention to prevent an outcome described in the first definition of serious adverse event.
Process for Reporting Adverse Events: In compliance with the HHS secretary’s regulations, the responsible person shall file a report within 15 days and may supplement the report within one year. A serious adverse event report is similar to other safety reports and can include a statement released to the public (without any personal health information). The HHS secretary may exempt certain reports that do not involve a significant public health issue. Records must be kept by the responsible person for six years; three years for small businesses. There is a Rule of Construction that the submission of any report shall not be construed as an admission that the cosmetic product involved, caused, or contributed to the relevant adverse event.
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Fragrance and Flavor Ingredients: If an ingredient(s) has caused or contributed to a serious adverse event, the HHS secretary may request a list of such ingredients, and such list must be provided within 30 days of the request.
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Safety Substantiation: Records must be maintained that demonstrates adequate substantiation of the safety of the cosmetic product. Adequate substantiation means tests, studies, or other evidence to support a reasonable certainty that the product is safe.
Inspection: The responsible person shall permit an officer or HHS employee (with credentials) to have access to inspect records, manufacturing and other issues.
Registration and Product Listing: Cosmetic manufacturers must submit a registration no later than ONE YEAR AFTER ENACTMENT (December 29, 2022). New facilities must register within 60 days (or 60 days after deadline). Renewal is every two years. Updates or changes must be submitted within 60 days of the change. The content of the information required for registration is outlined in the law. The registering company must also list all cosmetic products it imports, manufactures, or processes and include product category or categories, list of ingredients (fragrances, flavors, or colors), and product listing number (if previously assigned). Flexibility is given to the listing of multiple products with identical formulations or those that differ only to colors, fragrances, flavors, or quantity. Annual updates are to be submitted. FDA will withhold confidential information included in a listing when a request for information is filed.
The HHS secretary may suspend a cosmetic entity’s registration if there is a reasonable probability that a product is causing serious adverse health or deaths, and the secretary has reasonable belief that other products made or processes may also be affected and for which health concerns are raised about the products manufactured. Notice of suspension is to be provided and an opportunity within five days to provide corrective action; or a hearing may be held. The secretary may conclude (a) the suspension remains necessary or (b) the registrant must submit a corrective action plan to demonstrate remediation of the problem conditions. The plan will be reviewed not later than 14 business days or such other time agreed upon by the parties. If the secretary vacates the suspension, FDA will then reinstate the registration. If the facility is suspended, no person shall introduce or deliver in the United States cosmetic products from such facility. The secretary can only delegate this authority to the FDA Commissioner.
Labeling: Each cosmetic product shall have a label that includes a domestic address, domestic phone number, or electronic contact information. In addition, the following applies to labeling.
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Fragrance Allergens: The responsible person shall identify on the label each fragrance allergen included. The secretary shall propose a rule on June 29, 2024 (18 months after date of enactment) and final rule 180 days after the public comment period closes. The secretary shall consider international, state, and local requirements for allergen disclosure and threshold amount levels.
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Cosmetic Products for Professional Use: A professional is an individual licensed by a state authority to practice in the field of cosmetology, nail care, barbering, or esthetics.
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Professional Use Labeling: A cosmetic product introduced into interstate commerce and intended to be used only by a professional shall bear a label that contains a clear and prominent statement that the product shall be administered for use only by a licensed professional; and is in conformity with the requirements for cosmetics labeling.
Records: Records are to be available to authorized personnel to examine products if there is reason to believe a cosmetic product is adulterated or an ingredient could cause harm or run afoul of other standards. The authorized personnel must provide written notice to have access to records at a reasonable time to determine whether the product poses a threat. The records to be reviewed do not include recipes or formulas for cosmetics, financial data, pricing data, personnel data (except qualifications) research data (other than safety substantiation) or sales data (other than shipment data regarding sales).
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Rule of Construction: Nothing in this section shall be construed to limit the secretary’s ability to inspect records or require establishment and maintenance of records under any other provision of the law.
Mandatory Recall Authority: If the secretary determines there is a reasonable probability that a cosmetic is adulterated or misbranded and the use or exposure will cause serious adverse health consequences or death, the secretary shall provide the cosmetic manufacturer an opportunity to voluntarily cease distribution and recall such article. If the entity refuses or does not recall the cosmetic within the time and manner prescribed, the secretary may order that the product not be distributed.
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Hearing: A hearing may be held, no later than 10 days after the date of issuance. A process for resolution is provided by the law to either recall the product and cease distribution based on evidence provided or permit the product to continue distribution. Notice to affected individuals may be required.
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Public Notification: If a recall is required, a press release is to be published, and alerts and public notices are to be issued, as appropriate. The materials must include the name of the cosmetic; a description of the risk; to the extent practicable, information for consumers about similar cosmetics that are not affected by the recall and ensure publication on the FDA website of the image of the cosmetic. The secretary can only delegate this authority to the Commissioner of the FDA.
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Rule of Construction: Nothing in this section shall affect the authority of the secretary to request or participate in a voluntary recall or to issue an order to cease distribution or to recall under any other provision of this chapter.
Small Businesses: Responsible persons and owners and operators of facilities whose gross annual sales in the United States of cosmetic products for the previous three-year period is less than $1,000,000 shall be considered small business and not subject to Good Manufacturing Practices, registration, and listing requirements.
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Exemptions: The small business exceptions do NOT apply to (1) cosmetic products that contact the mucus membrane of the eye under conditions of use that are customary or usual; (2) products that are injected; (3) products that are intended for internal use; or (4) products that are intended to alter appearance for more than 24 hours under conditions of use that are customary or usual, and removal by the consumer is not a part of such conditions of use that are customary or usual.
Preemption. No state or political subdivision of a state may establish any law, regulation, order, or other requirement for cosmetics that is different for registration and product listing, good manufacturing practice, records, recalls, adverse event reporting or safety substantiation. Nothing prevents any state from prohibiting the use of an ingredient in a cosmetic product, or continuing requirement of any state in effect at time of enactment.
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Savings Clause: Nothing in the amendments shall be construed to modify, preempt, or displace any action for damages or the liability of any person under the law of any state, whether statutory or based in common law.
Talc-containing cosmetics: The HHS secretary shall propose regulations one year after December 29, 2022 and finalize the rules 180 days after the comment period to establish testing for detecting asbestos in talc products.
(1) Not later than one year after date of enactment of this act, the secretary shall promulgate proposed regulations to establish and require standardized testing methods for detecting and identifying asbestos in talc-containing cometic products and
(2) Not later than 180 days after the date on which the public comment period on the proposed regulations closes, the secretary shall issue such final regulations.
PFAS in Cosmetic. The HHS secretary shall assess the use of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetic products and the scientific evidence regarding the safety in cosmetic products, including risks. The secretary may consult with the National Center for Toxicological Research. Report must be issued not later than three years after enactment summarizing the results of the assessment conducted.
Sense of the Congress on animal testing: It is the sense of the Congress that animal testing should not be used for the purposes of safety testing on cosmetic products and should be phased out except for appropriate allowances.
Funding: $14,200,000 for 2023, 25,960,000 for 2024, and $41,890,000 for 2025-2027 have been identified for these activities. The new law provides no industry user fees.
FOOTNOTES
1 This legislation was included in H.R. 2617, the “Consolidated Appropriations Act, 2023,” as part of a year-end bill.
©2022 Greenberg Traurig, LLP. All rights reserved.
Coming Soon to a Lawbook Near You – New Cosmetic Requirements
Back in April 2015, Senators Dianne Feinstein (D-CA) and Susan Collins (R-ME) introduced the Personal Care Products Safety Act (S.1014). More recently, on September 22, 2016, the Senate Health, Education, Labor, and Pensions Committee received testimony from Senators Feinstein and Collins in support of this bipartisan legislation. The HELP Committee also heard from experts in the cosmetics industry about product developments and health standards.
Witnesses in favor of the Personal Care Products Safety Act stated that the FDA has not done enough to ban endocrine-disrupting chemicals in cosmetic products and that industry-financed review programs should not substitute government regulatory programs in collecting chemical toxicity data. They contrasted FDA’s inability to ban products unless they are “adulterated” with the more expansive authorities of similar regulatory agencies in Canada, Japan, and the European Union.
Witnesses against the proposed legislation described chemical toxicity testing procedures already place, such as the Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT). They also noted the proposed legislation would have a disproportionate impact on smaller companies, as stricter national standards for the entire industry are expected to increase the costs of producing and distributing all kinds of personal care and cosmetic products.
As we described last year when the bill was first introduced, the Personal Care Products Safety Act would introduce significant changes to the current U.S. regulatory system for cosmetics. Among other provisions, the bill would require cosmetic manufacturers to register with FDA annually and submit ingredient information to the agency, and for larger firms registration would be accompanied by a user fee. Such a registration and user fee system would be similar to what is currently mandated for drug and device manufacturers. Registered cosmetic firms would also be required to comply with Good Manufacturing Practices for their products, analogous to what drug and device companies must comply with today; such “cosmetic GMPs” would need to be developed by FDA through notice-and-comment rulemaking so that industry and other stakeholders have an opportunity to provide feedback before the rules are finalized. In addition, S. 1014 would give FDA mandatory recall authority over cosmetics (an authority that the agency only recently obtained for food products under the Food Safety Modernization Act of 2011), and cosmetic firms would be required to report serious adverse events to FDA within 15 business days of becoming aware of the event.
Despite some opposition, congressional aides say the proposed legislation is likely to see movement next year. FDA, too, welcomes the opportunity to increase its regulatory power over the cosmetics and personal care products. Citing recent adverse event reports about WEN hair products, the Agency has stressed the need to do away with voluntary reporting for adverse events so that companies are required to report serious adverse events as they become aware of them. FDA also has raised concerns about studies done by the industry self-regulatory process called Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), claiming they are summaries of voluntary data rather than analyses of raw data from clinical trials. Overall, therefore, FDA is supportive of the Senate’s effort to expand the agency’s cosmetic oversight power. Many industry members also support the bipartisan compromise legislation, as do consumer protection groups who view some strengthening of the U.S. regulatory system as “better than nothing.”
contributed to this article.
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When Cosmetic Becomes Drug re: Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
It is estimated Americans will spend over $60 billion on beauty products in 2015. With so much at stake, manufacturers have tried to aggressively promote their products. In many cases, this promotion has resulted in unintentional product misbranding.
The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) provides the Food and Drug Administriation (FDA) with regulatory authority over cosmetics to ensure they are not adulterated or misbranded. See 21 U.S.C. § 361, 362. While the market for non-essential beauty products has increased dramatically over the past couple of decades, the FD&C Act has changed very little since its enactment nearly 80 years ago.
This could be changing with the introduction of the Personal Care Products Safety Act (PCPSA), which seeks to significantly expand the FDA’s authority over cosmetic products sold in the United States and eliminate many of the regulatory differences between cosmetics and drugs. Nevertheless, the PCPSA fails to address the issue of unintentional product misbranding in the context of product marketing.
Cosmetic or a Drug
The FD&C Act defines cosmetics as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body…for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.” Cosmetics include “skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial make-up preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves hair colors, and deodorants,” or any of their component parts. Cosmetics marketed in the United States, whether they are manufactured here or are imported from abroad, must comply with the labeling requirements of the FD&C Act.
By contrast, drugs are defined as products that are “intended for use in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of a disease.” FD&C Act, sec. 201(g)(1). Some products are both a cosmetic and a drug. An example of this is an SPF moisturizer, which acts as both a cosmetic in its moisturizing function and a drug in its ultraviolet protection. Products that are both cosmetics and drugs are often referred to as “cosmeceuticals,” and must comply with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of the law.
The focus in defining both cosmetics and drugs is on their intended use. Intended use can be established through marketing, consumer perception, or the ingredients used. In regulating the cosmetics industry, the FDA has spent a considerable amount of energy focusing on the product labeling, advertising, internet, or other marketing activities that may operate to establish the product as a drug based upon its intended use. When companies market anti-aging products as having a physiological impact on the body or one’s appearance, the cosmetic becomes a drug.
Regulatory Overview
If a manufacturer’s product is classified as a drug, the manufacturer is subject to a whole host of regulations it would not otherwise be subject to if the product is classified as a cosmetic. Under the FD&C Act, there is no FDA review of cosmetics prior to marketing, with the exception of color additives. Further, unlike pharmaceuticals and medical devices, there is no testing by the FDA of cosmetics prior to their sale to consumers. By contrast, if a product is categorized as a drug and is not generally recognized as safe and effective, the cosmetic manufacturer must subject their “cosmeceutical” product to a rigorous New Drug Approval (NDA) process, which includes safety and efficacy testing.
Another difference between cosmetics and drugs is that cosmetic manufacturers have no obligation to engage in adverse event reporting. While cosmetic manufacturers are encouraged to engage in adverse event reporting, there is no requirement under the FC&A Act to report adverse events, regardless of their severity. Since the creation of the FC&A Act, cosmetic manufacturers have controlled the safety testing of their products. Further, if they choose not to engage in safety testing, they only need to indicate in the product labeling the safety of the product has not been adequately substantiated prior to marketing. By contrast, if a product is categorized as a drug and is not generally recognized as safe and effective, the cosmetic manufacturer must subject their product to a rigorous New Drug Approval (NDA) process, which includes safety and efficacy testing.
Misbranding: Conversion of Cosmetics to Drugs
Along with the rise in beauty product use, the cosmetics industry has also seen a rise in FDA interest in the marketing of such products. This interest has lead to the increased issuance of FDA Warning Letters.
In the Fall of 2012, the FDA issued a Warning Letter to Lancôme, a subsidiary of L’Oreal, addressing claims made by the manufacturer on its website regarding some of its anti-aging creams. Claims that “[U]nique R.A.R.E oligopeptide helps re-bundle collagen,” “[B]oosts the activity of genes and stimulates the production of youth proteins,” and “[I]nspired by eye-lifting surgical techniques . . . helps recreate a younger, lifted look in the delicate eye area” were deemed “intended to affect the structure or any function of the body,” rendering the products drugs under Sec. 201(g)(1)(C) of the FDCA. The FDA went on to state that because certain of Lancôme’s anti-aging creams are not generally recognized by experts as safe and effective for their intended use, the products are new drugs that could not be legally marketed without prior approval from the FDA through the NDA process. In the alternative, the FDA gave Lancôme fifteen days to take corrective action with regard to existing claims and to discontinue making such claims in the future. Lancôme chose to take corrective action and discontinue future claims. Only two weeks after the issuance of this warning letter, a putative class action was filed against L’Oreal and Lancôme asserting consumer fraud claims, based upon the same marketing representations identified in the FDA Warning Letter.
The FDA also issued a Warning Letter to Cell Vitals on November 24, 2014. In the letter, the FDA informed Cell Vitals it had reviewed the cosmetic company’s website with regard to its “ReLuma Advanced Stem Cell Facial Moisturizer,” “ReLuma Skin Illuminating Stem Cell Anti-Aging Cleanser,” and “Reluma Stem Cell Eye Cream,” and determined that the products “appear to be promoted for uses that cause these products to be drugs.” Some of the advertising examples cited by the FDA include: “Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: [an ingredient in your product] … protects cells from …inflammation” and “Camellia Sinesis Extract [an ingredient in your product] is anti-bacterial and … anti-cancer.” Ultimately, the products were deemed misbranded, requiring an FDA approved NDA.
Similarly, the FDA issued a Warning Letter to Golden Caviar Skin Care on July 13, 2015 stating Golden Caviar Skin Care promoted a number of dietary supplements in a manner that caused the products to be drugs under the FD&C Act. An example of this misbranding included online marketing with regard to the company’s Caviar Lifting & Firming Serum with Zinc, where the company claimed “[i]t helps repair damaged tissues and heal wounds. Great for anyone wanting to do away with old acne scars or suffering from Rosacea…..We have found the solution.” The FDA reasoned the labeling for the product failed to bear adequate directions for use, and such “products are offered for a condition that is not amendable to self-diagnosis and treatment by individuals who are not medical practitioners; therefore, adequate directions for use cannot be written so that a layperson can use this drug safely” for its intended purpose.
The increase in FDA issued Warning Letters in the cosmetic industry has lead to a rise in consumer class actions based upon allegedly deceptive cosmetic labeling. Cosmetic companies must continue to be cautious in creating product labeling and other advertisements, electronic or otherwise, to ensure the representations do not open the door to an FDA Warning Letter or potential consumer fraud class action.
Reform: The Personal Care Products Safety Act
On April 20, 2015, Senators Dianne Feinstein, a Democrat from California and Susan Collins, a Republican from Maine introduced the Personal Care Products Safety Act. The Personal Care Products Safety Act aims to modernize what is now mostly a self-regulating industry, and brings cosmetic regulation closer to that of drugs. The bill, which has broad support from industry and consumer groups, proposes a number of significant changes to the FD&C Act, including but not limited to: the registration of cosmetic facilities and ingredient statements, ingredient review and approval, reporting of serious adverse events, record inspection and FDA recall authority, FDA review of cosmetic ingredients and non-functional constituents, the development and implementation of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), and animal testing alternatives. For those larger companies who already engage in extensive safety testing, the impact may not be as great. In fact, many companies are behind the legislation.
Despite the issuance of numerous FDA Warning Letters to cosmetic corporations, the Personal Care Products Safety Act, as currently proposed, does little to provide guidance to beauty care companies with regard to the marketing and promotion of personal care products. In the past several years, the issuance of FDA Warning letters has lead to an increase in consumer class action lawsuits against cosmetic companies. Without a product labeling approval process or an avenue by which cosmetic companies can seek pre-marketing opinions regarding product advertising, it is likely consumer class action suits will continue.